KUALA LUMPUR, May 29 — Of the many things I love about living in this country, our definition of a “work lunch” is one of them.
I take tremendous pleasure in knowing that a cold sandwich or stale pastry, gnawed on lifelessly in front of the computer, doesn’t have to be and often isn’t the norm for most office workers in Malaysia.
Instead, we have a wealth of places catering to the working man, hungry for a bite and a bargain.
In the Klang Valley, most are naturally concentrated in the city centre, within walking distance of the major financial institutions.
The most common scene at lunch hour is this: groups of corporate ghouls sit around a table in their starched white shirts, collars loosened, colour returning to their pallid faces as they dig into a brief reminder that life exists beyond jargon and acronyms designed to confuse.
But further out, in neighbourhoods like Sri Hartamas, where the shirts are a little less stiff and a few more Pilates-class types are walking around, the allure of an affordable, delicious, and filling meal calls out to all.
The selection at Warung Soho isn’t huge, but it covers plenty of bases. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Enter Warung Soho, located in Block D, Plaza Damas.
The fare is nasi berlauk: plain white rice with an assortment of dishes, but with a distinctly Kelantanese identity.
Nasi kerabu and some versions of nasi lemak are also available, but most go for the lauk, which includes ayam kampung, either goreng or in gulai, daging bakar, goreng or gulai, and kambing bakar.
Alternatively, there are preset combinations. One of the most popular is Nasi Soho (RM10.90), a budget-friendly choice that comes with cubes of ayam goreng kunyit, sambal, cucumber slices, and a generous splash of gulai gravy over the rice.
To this, I threw in daging goreng kunyit (RM7.90) and half a telur masin (RM2.20). Then I felt guilty for having two proteins and asked for some ulam, as if that would somehow balance it out.
As the primary flavouring for both the chicken and beef, turmeric can sometimes carry a slightly bitter, even unpleasant edge.
But when handled well, as it is here, it takes on a sourish, almost citrusy and fruity character that makes it ideal for wolfing down with plenty of rice smothered in rich gulai.
A satisfying lunch of ‘nasi soho’ with ‘daging goreng kunyit’ and ‘telur masin’. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Pair that with the sharp, fiery sambal known as sambal jantan in Kelantan, defined by its heat and the use of vinegar instead of belacan, resulting in something spicy and acerbic rather than salty.
It acts more like a tonic that keeps the palate open than a savoury condiment. That role falls to the telur masin, though I find these could be saltier. I might go for a whole egg next time instead of just half.
For something so straightforward, the meal feels complete. There is no fuss, no pretence.
Just well-cooked food that delivers on flavour, balance and satisfaction. In a neighbourhood full of aspirational cafés and overpriced salads, it is a reminder that a good lunch does not need to pretend to be anything more.
Look for the red sign right as you approach Block D of Plaza Damas. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Warung Soho Hartamas
D-0-1, Plaza Damas,
Jalan Sri Hartamas 1,
Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur
Open daily, 8am-10pm. Closes at 6pm on Mondays.
Tel: 017-946 2624
Facebook: Warung Soho
Instagram: @warungsoho
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
