KUALA LUMPUR, June 19 – Before my bowl of Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen reached our table, it announced its imminent arrival with its aroma first. That of pork bones simmered for long hours into opacity, tempered by fine soy sauce.
A broth that is deep in flavour but not too rich. Noodles that held their bounce. A slice of lightly torched chashu, tender enough that it nearly falls apart as I lift it with my chopsticks. A seasoned egg, sliced in half, revealing its custard centre.
This is the sort of bowl I would expect from any decent ramen shop in Japan.
But definitely not a café in KL that serves specialty coffee and freshly baked pastries.
We hadn’t planned on finding this place. Our usual breakfast spot in the Taman OUG neighbourhood was too crowded so we decided to walk around looking for an alternative.
The first thing we saw was the yatai – a mobile Japanese food stall seen along the streets and at festivals in Japan – outside an otherwise nondescript shop. This somewhat incongruous element promised bowls of ramen within.
The ‘yatai’ – a mobile Japanese food stall – outside the shop promises bowls of ramen within. — Picture by CK Lim
But what we didn’t expect was the low hum of a grinder and the soft hiss of milk steaming when we entered. Did we just do an Alice Through the Looking-Glass – walked into a ramen shop and stumbled upon a coffee bar instead?
Perhaps a bit of both.
The shop in question is called Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster, a collaboration that, at first glance, shouldn’t quite work, but somehow does.
Certainly the space with its low lighting, bare walls and shelves stacked with handmade ceramic cups leaned more towards artisanal café aesthetics: understated décor and a tranquil ambience.
Barista grinding beans and brewing pour over coffee. — Picture by CK Lim
Pour over coffee (left). ‘Ri Shai Ju Hua’ (right). — Picture by CK Lim
As with any decent specialty coffee bar, our barista welcomes us and introduces the entire coffee menu to us. One of us opts for a pour over coffee while the other orders one of their signature drinks.
There is a certain meditative quality watching the barista grind the coffee beans (a curated selection from different coffee roasters, including One Half Roastery and NashLee Roastery), wetting the filter paper and pouring the hot water over the grounds with a gooseneck kettle.
My pour over coffee arrived in a handmade cup from Seremban-based Qihewood Pottery. It sat warm in my hands, textured and heavy. And somehow, that knowledge of the craft behind this beautiful vessel made the brew taste better.
The signature drink we ordered is named like a line from Chinese poetry: Ri Shai Ju Hua (日曬橘花), which translates to “Sun Dried Orange Flowers”.
The flavour notes come in layers. First, a bright acidity from the lemon juice that is quickly mellowed by the citrusy tang of the sun dried orange. Then the subtle osmanthus, floral and faintly apricot-like, dancing with the fizzy soda. All anchored by the caffeine hit of a freshly pulled espresso shot.
Refreshing and, dare I say, lyrical?
We pair our coffees with flaky pastries, freshly baked daily by Contour in PJ. The verdant pistachio croissant, nutty topping and creamy interior, and the simple but always satisfying pain au chocolat.
Pistachio croissant (left) and ‘pain au chocolat’ (right). — Picture by CK Lim
That would have been plenty for breakfast for most people. But if you have space for more, and make this brunch or an early lunch, then don’t miss the ramen by Ramen Monster, the other half of this shop’s synergistic equation.
A good basic bowl to begin with would be the aforementioned Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen but if you’re feeling more indulgent, try their Truffle Shoyu Ramen.
The same deeply flavourful broth is now enriched by a generous dollop of heady truffle paste atop the chashu. To gild the lily further, a slice of sous-vide duck breast, tender and just pink at the centre. Every sip tastes like manna, every mouthful luxurious.
Ramen and coffee. Who knew?
Truffle Shoyu Ramen. — Picture by CK Lim
Which brings us back to our first thoughts on this place: that this is an unlikely pairing that shouldn’t quite work, but somehow does.
The delicate notes of a pour over coffee don’t have to compete with the soul-lifting warmth of a ramen broth. They can instead be two distinct voices taking turns.
For this is very much a conversation, a sort of culinary dialogue that we, as diners, are very much eager to return to.
Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster 怪物拉面
51, Jln Hujan,
Taman Overseas Union, KL
Open Mon-Thu 11am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm
https://www.instagram.com/absorb_sunlight/
https://www.instagram.com/ramenmonsterkl/
• This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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