KUALA LUMPUR, May 4 — “You must be the only kid that doesn’t like fish balls. What’s wrong with you?” And more gems from my father, coming to a memoir near you.
Yes, growing up, I didn’t like the ubiquitous crowd-pleaser of kid-friendly local food: the humble fish ball.
I could never understand the appeal of a plain, bouncy (almost artificially so) ball that tasted of nothing distinct.
Then again, I was (and still am) perfectly content with a nine-piece box of “chicken” nuggets and no fewer than four packets of the definitely artificial “Tangy BBQ” sauce — so what do I know?
What I do know now is that Hien Kee holds the answers with its homey, comforting fish ball noodles.
Hien Kee is located in a public housing block off Jalan Loke Yew. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Tucked beneath a public housing block on Jalan Loke Yew, Hien Kee has been a staple for nearby residents for decades.
The small shop seats very few inside, instead setting up tables along the five-foot way in front and next door.
Parking is a major headache, and many diners simply park illegally on the main road.
The menu is short and sweet: fish ball noodles (RM9), served with four saito fish balls (made from wolf herring or ikan parang), four slices of fish cake, and a single fish skin wanton — a speciality also known as a UFO elsewhere, thanks to its resemblance to a flying saucer.
An extra order of ‘liu’ is always a good idea, pictured here are fish balls, fish cake and fish skin ‘wantons’. — Picture by Ethan Lau
More of these liu can be ordered on the side, along with fish maw (RM10), a chewy favourite of mine.
We got an extra bowl with everything inside: five fish balls (RM5), five fish skin wantons (RM5) and a large portion of fish cake (RM6).
Far from the uncomfortably rubbery yet bland fish balls I was accustomed to, these are springy with the subtle, mild flavour of fish.
In fact, those two words could describe nearly everything here, particularly the clean-tasting, slightly sweet soup that does exactly what you want it to do: soothe and relieve your palate, and in turn, make you feel a little better.
Hien Kee’s fish maw is delightfully spongy without any off-putting fishy aroma. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The rest of the bites are more about texture than flavour, especially the rustic fish cake, which is more enjoyable in thick-cut pieces from the extra order.
The fish skin wantons are tender morsels of slipper fish skin wrapped around tightly packed balls of ground pork. The most song hau — Cantonese for an enjoyable mouthfeel — has to be the fish maw, which is spongy, satisfying, and free from the off-putting fishy aroma that usually dogs it.
The only modification that might improve on all this is a request so popular it’s listed on the menu on the wall: an extra plate of crispy pork lard (RM2).
What arrives is a small dip plate of crispy, solid lard sitting in a pool of more liquid lard, topped with crispy, sweet shallots. These add the perfect amount of oomph to both the noodles — even the dry konlo version is pretty understated — and particularly, the gentle soup. Make sure to ask for it.
Extra pork lard makes everything taste better. — Picture by Ethan Lau
I’m no longer a kid (up for debate), but now I do enjoy a good fish ball (not up for debate). As for what’s wrong with me? Maybe one day I’ll find the answer in another place like Hien Kee. For now, this’ll do.
Hien Kee Fish Ball Noodles
24, Jalan Loke Yew,
Pudu, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am-9pm
Tel: 017-252 5012 / 016-668 3755
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
