KUALA LUMPUR, June 28 — Cheras is filled with cafés and specialty coffee bars. Most tend to be packed on weekends; it’s how it is when everyone seems to be hankering for their Eggs Benedict and sourdough for brunch, and enough cups of coffee to keep them up for the rest of their week.
This feels as though it defeats the purpose of visiting a café, if one is after some peace and quiet; it might well be less crowded at a wet market, honestly.
Which is why it feels like such a discovery coming across Beanery, a somewhat secluded café nestled within the quieter part of Taman Taynton View.
Outside, we are greeted by a random assortment of potted plants and a discreet wooden door; perhaps promising a bit of a contemplative retreat within.
Orange Americano. — Picture by CK Lim
Inside, a hush. Stucco walls cool to the touch, exposed concrete floors, and plenty of wood – the warm grain of teak, polished mahogany – in both the furnishing and subtle accents.
There’s a thoughtful rhythm here, a stillness that nods towards both Scandinavian minimalism and Japanese aesthetics.
This design sensibility comes courtesy of Brendon Lee, the founder of Beanery. Formerly an e-commerce account manager, he now runs the café with his family.
Lee is also the barista here; when we visited, he was behind the bar pulling shots of espresso for customers. Slowly, without rush, as though he was brewing pour-over coffee rather than making long blacks and flat whites.
Cempedak Loaf (left). Framed wood (right). — Picture by CK Lim
That level of care is evident in our Orange Americano. The espresso’s bitter edge is lifted by the citrus oils. The scent alone is enough to entice: roasted beans and orange zest, sharp and clean.
We pair our coffees with Beanery’s fresh bakes. The Cempedak Loaf, warmed before serving, is an unexpected delight. A buttery crust gives way to a tender crumb, laced with golden strands of the tropical fruit.
It’s indulgent without being heavy, sweet enough without being too cloying. Just the way we like it.
Every bite and sip is accompanied by the curated ambience; Lee shows restraint in not filling every available cranny with more tables and chairs.
Instead, there is sufficient space for one to fall into a private reverie or to simply take in every detail – how a slice of tree trunk, rough-edged but polished too, hangs framed on the wall like a window into a distant forest.
One can find solitude here, if so desired.
Natural light diffuses gently from the outside, which makes the window seat the most tranquil spot by far. From there, the world passes by, a boon for those fond of observation or simply lingering with a coffee and a slice of cake.
Speaking of cakes, these continue to tempt from Beanery’s chiller display: Espresso Burnt Cheesecake, Matcha Tiramisu, Genmaicha Tea Mousse, and more.
The window seat. — Picture by CK Lim
For us, there is a certain pleasure in the yielding cool of their Oreo Mousse, shaped into a formal cube with a single Oreo cookie perched on top as a bold punctuation. You really can’t go wrong with a marriage of cream and cocoa, can you?
Savour this slowly, as with everything else here.
Even my caffè latte, which arrives some time later, reflects this unhurried pace. Steamed milk, poured into a fresh shot of espresso without flourish.
The resultant cuppa is velvety and calming. No more and no less. It is exactly what it should be.
This might be the most peaceful café in Cheras, we reckon. (For now, at least. Fingers crossed.)
Oreo Mousse. — Picture by CK Lim
What lingers is not one single cup nor any particular slice, but the sense of one’s own place in an often disruptive world.
If nothing else, Beanery provides a Zen-like space for us to unwind and reflect on all the small, ordinary things in our lives. Such a gift, this.
My ‘caffè latte’, velvety and calming. — Picture by CK Lim
Beanery
74, Jalan Nadchatiram 1,
Taman Taynton View,
Cheras, KL
Open Tue-Sun 9am-7pm; Tue closed
IG: https://www.instagram.com/beane.ry/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/Beaneryyy/
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
*Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Zen-like space. — Picture by CK Lim
